PLUMBING & HEATING 0121 330 1115 PLUMBER & GAS FITTER SUTTON COLDFIELD
PLUMBING & HEATING PLUMBER & GAS FITTER SUTTON COLDFIELD 0121 330 1115
Plumbing & Heating Plumber & Gas Fitter Sutton Coldfield Plumber 0121 330 1115

SUTTON COLDFIELD PLUMBING & HEATING

           

 Plumber & Gas Fitter  Sutton Coldfield

*  Washing Machines Fitted

*  Dishwasher Fitted

*  Gas & Electric Cookers Fitted

*  Taps & Washers Repaired

*  Boiler Installation & Service

*  Leaks & Repairs

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Call the Local plumber Sutton Coldfield

Call Now    0121 330 1115

24 hour Plumbing Service

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Looking for a plumber in the Sutton Coldfield Area !

Reliable, trustworthy and professional well look no further.  Call Now 0121 330 1115

If you are in lichfield sutton Area and need a plumber to fix a dripping tap, a faulty toilet cistern
or a leaking hot water cylinder or radiator,

 Sutton Coldfield Plumbing & Heating 24 HR can offer you a solution.

Our plumbers in the local area carry a wide range of standard parts on board our fully equipped van,

So many repairs can be carried out on the spot. If not, and more specialist parts are required,
a visit to one of our local plumbers merchants is usually all it takes to get everything needed to fix the problem.

If you require maintenance our plumber in Lichfield & Sutton can also help with smelly blocked drains,

Kitchen sinks, shower or bath waste traps or slow flushing toilets
and they’re all part of a day’s work for Lichfield plumbing & heating

We carry all the equipment needed to sort out an array of day-to-day water and heating related problems,

So rest assured, we can get things working for you again in the fastest time possible.

Our plumber in Lichfield & sutton coldfield offers a 7 day emergency call-out service,
because our plumbers understand the urgency of certain plumbing problems and the anxiety
and stress that water leaks cause customers.

Wherever possible our plumber will get to your property as fast as we can and do our best to stabilise the problem,
before returning to fix it once and for all.

                                Call Now  0121 330 1115

Noises in the Plumbing System

Every effort is made to reduce the noise of your plumbing system when it is installed and throughout its maintenance.
There is usually a solution when noises around home occur; it is just matter if identifying the cause.

 A large proportion of noises in the plumbing system are due to the water travelling at high velocity.
Therefore, if you can reduce the water velocity, you can reduce the noise.
When your water supply piping is installed or repaired,
it is important to make it large enough to ensure an adequate supply of water and to reduce the noise.

The three main causes of complaint for plumbing noises are water hammer, whistling and chattering.

Water hammer is caused by thumping pipes when the water is abruptly turned off.
It can happen on a normal tap, but is more common on pipes attached to a washing machine or dishwasher.
In both of these machines, the valve is electrically operated by a solenoid valve.

Water hammer noises can be eradicated by the installation of an air chamber
or short length of pipe in the wall where each supply pipe enters a plumbing fixture.
When the valve closes, the moving water rushes up into the vertical pipe and compresses the air,
so it slows down gradually. However, with a vertical pipe the bubble can
get dissolved, in which case a rubber sealed system can be purchased.

In special cases, shock arrestors can be installed on the main supply line near the meter,
or if possible, close to the source of the noise.

Water hammer can also be caused by:

Faulty stop-cock - stop-cocks can become faulty when the packing becomes loose and the jumpers wear out.
Faulty taps - again the packing can become loose and the jumpers wear out
Faulty ball valve in the cold water storage tank

It may seem inconvenient to try and access your pipes and work out the cause,
but if water hammer is allowed to continue it can result in leaks in the piping,
fixtures or tanks and general deterioration of the pipes.

The root cause of chattering noises can usually also be found at the pipes.
Check if you have any loose piping or pipes that rub against any other metal projection.

Similar to the cause of water hammer, whistling is caused by the speed of water flowing
through piping which is usually too small. The attachment of a pressure reducing valve will
assist the whole plumbing system, though whistling occurs mostly at bends in the pipe.

Other Noises:

Other noises reported in plumbing are creaking sounds in walls or floors.
This is caused by the expansion and contraction of heating and cooling pipes that are snugly fit.
To remedy this, put some felt or lagging around the pipes.
If the pipes are packed too tightly to allow this, put a small notch in the wood so they can expand.

Humming coming from the pipes will probably originate from the pump.
This can be solved by fitting anti-vibration pump brackets. Also check the pipes however,
as it may be due to too small water supply pipes, as is the case with water hammer.

If it is your boiler that that is making the noise, don’t just assume that they are natural boiler noises.
If the flow of water is inadequate, this may cause a noisy boiler.
Ensuring the correct water flow rate is particularly important in boilers attached to the wall

 Plumber Call Now 0121 330 1115

FROZEN PIPES

Frozen pipes can cause extensive damage and considerable inconvenience to householders.
Because water expands when it freezes, pipes can be subjected to enormous pressure causing them to burst.
Both metal and plastic pipes are affected by this phenomenon.
The most vulnerable pipes are those that are exposed to the severe cold,
such as outdoor hose pipes, as well as water supply pipes in unheated areas like garages, cellars and attics.

In the case of frozen pipes, prevention is the key!
The following preventative measures will greatly improve your chances of avoiding the misery
and expense that ruptured pipes can cause:

  1. Before the start of winter, disconnect all outside hoses and store them indoors.
  2. Check around your property for vulnerable pipework.
  3. Ensure that both hot and cold water pipes are insulated if they are found in areas that are exposed to freezing temperatures or drafts.
  4. Affected areas include basements, garages, lofts and under kitchen and bathroom cabinets.
  5. Give some thought to investing in insulation products specifically designed for water pipes.
  6. These can be bought from building suppliers and DIY stores.
  7. If you can’t afford commercial coverings,
  8. newspapers can be used to provide some basic protection and insulation for exposed pipework.
  9. Alternatively you can try beaming a small heater or heat lamp in the direction of the vulnerable pipes.
  10. Bear in mind that small water pipes will freeze more quickly than waste pipes and sewers.
  11. Avoid leaving garage doors open if there is water supply pipework in the garage.
  12. It only takes a few minutes for pipes to freeze in severely cold weather.
  13. During periods of very cold weather, run cold water from the taps served by exposed pipework.
  14. The temperature of the running water will help prevent the pipes from freezing.
  15. Doors that link heated and unheated areas should be kept ajar to warm up those vulnerable parts of the house.
  16. LEAVE THE HEAT ON in your home if you go away during the cold weather.
  17. Countless winter holidaymakers return to floods and large plumbing bills because they fail to follow this advice.

The first sign of a frozen pipe is usually a tap that will not yield water.
If you do suspect a frozen pipe, your first step should be to locate affected area.

Keep the tap served by the pipe open so that it can drain as it thaws.
Steam created by heating the pipe can cause it to burst if it does not have an escape.

Several methods exist for thawing frozen pipes, but all essentially involve applying heat to the frozen section of the pipe.
This is best achieved through the use of an electric heating pad, hair dryer or portable heater/heat lamp.
Alternatively, try wrapping the pipe with towels or cloths soaked in hot water.
NEVER use a blow torch or other open flame device to thaw a frozen pipe.

This can be calamitous if the flame comes in contact with combustible materials used for insulation but
it also risks boiling the water within the pipe, thereby causing it to explode.
AVOID using any form of direct heating method if the frozen pipe is located next to a gas pipe.
In this case you should contact a plumbing professional for assistance.

Once water is running freely through the tap again, you will know that the pipe has thawed.
At this stage it is worth checking other taps for similar problems.
If one pipe has frozen, there is a good chance that others may also be affected.

Call Plumber  0121 330 1115
Toilets - Mechanism and Common Problems

 

Toilets are essentially a fairly simple mechanism,
designed to carry away waste and prevent sewer gasses invading the home.

Toilets are comprised of two main parts made from vitreous china:
the tank and the bowl. In some toilets these parts are made separately and joined together,
while in others they designed as one whole piece.

Before use, the toilet’s tank and bowl are partially filled with water.
Between the bowl and the toilet bend, passages create a trap that is constantly filled with water,
and exists to prevent the rise of sewer gasses.

 

When the toilet is flushed, the flush valve between the tank and bowl is lifted,
which allows water to flow into the bowl.
The water’s pressure forces the unclean water and waste down the pipe,
thus also cleaning the bowl. A refill tube from the tank then replaces the toilet bowl’s lost water.

As the toilet empties, the float ball drops with the water allowing the ballcock valve to release new water into the tank.
On toilets without a float ball, the ballcocks are activated by water pressure.

The standard toilet plumbing mechanism of the float ball and tank has been installed without change for many years.
Its simple design results in an efficient plumbing system. In older toilets however,
around 5 to 7 gallons of water are used to flush.
To prevent this waste, newer toilets can only use a maximum of 1.6 gallons.

To prevent flooding from the tank, an overflow pipe leads from the tank in case the water rises too high.

From the simple mechanism however, several problems can arise if your toilet is not checked.

In the case of toilet blockage, first make sure that no other drains from your bath or sink are blocked. If they are, the problem may be the main drain and a plumber should be called.

Toilet blockages are most commonly caused by objects that shouldn’t be there in the first place. Do not dispose of sanitary items or nappies down the toilet, and make sure that toilet bowl air freshener attachments are securely attached to the bowl.

Usually, a plunger will take care of general toilet blockages.

If the toilet pan is full, scoop some of the water into another container, and using wither your toilet brush or plunger, pump vigorously around 10 times to create a vacuum and cause pressure to move the blockage. Then flush the toilet to see whether it has worked.

This process may need to be repeated before it works. However, if you are not succeeding after a few attempts, it’s time to call the plumber!

If you are experiencing water seepage into the bowl after the tank has refilled, there may be leakage from the tank itself. To trace any leaks in your toilet’s plumbing, simply add some food colouring and you will able to follow the water’s path, and see if your float ball is the problem.

If your float ball has a leak or is excessively dirty, it will hold the ballcock valve open and not shut off the water.

If the connecting rod from the float ball to the ballcock valve is bent, the ball may not be reaching its required height and therefore allowing leakage from the valve. To keep this mechanism smooth, ensure the rod is straight and lubricate the lever.

What if the toilet is not blocked, but the wastepipe is slow to drain? Position a bowl under the trap, and unscrew the joints to remove this part. Clean it thoroughly, checking and replacing seals if necessary and securely screwing the part back in place.

Plumber Call Sutton Coldfield Plumbing And Heating  Now 0121 330 1115


Boiler Information

There are now three broad options for a boiler installation: conventional, combination and condensing. If you are considering a boiler replacement, it is worth understanding the differences and benefits of each.

Conventional Boilers

Conventional boilers use a gravity heating system with a water tank in the loft. This is the traditional system whereby a store of water is heated up prior to you using it, via the hot water cylinder and header tank.

This can be problematic as it comprises many large parts like the cylinder and header tank which require space for storage.

As the cylinder is heated whenever the hot water is on, the water can sometimes by very hot when it is required use. When the pump is off, the radiators can heat up by default due to convection. Therefore, whilst the conventional boiler does it job effectively, it does have some side effects that you must be aware of for safety reasons.

Combination Boilers

Combination boilers are a high efficiency option, and can involve condensing (see below). They also economise on space, and are currently a popular choice for UK homes. Combi boilers account for more than half the new domestic boilers installed in Britain annually.

Combi boilers are highly suited to small houses or flats because they don’t store water; they simply heat it as you use it. There is no cylinder, no tank and no connecting pipe work, which saves space and reduces hot water costs.

You can therefore access hot water almost instantly 24/7.

This helps you save on hot water costs, as the hot water is fed at mains pressure. Combi boilers provide a powerful shower without the need of a pump.

You can also save money on installation, as the time will be much shorter as there is less to install!

Condensing Boilers

Condensing Boilers are modern and highly efficient, incorporating an extra heat exchanger so that the hot exhaust gases lose much of their energy to pre-heat the water in the boiler system. Water vapour produced from the combustion condenses into liquid form releasing the “latent heat of vaporisation”. The condensate from this process has to be piped away.

From an energy saving perspective, it is always better to have a condensing boiler. There are more expensive, but it the long term will be cost efficient for the amount of energy they save.

Condensing boilers have been used the US and on the continent since the 1980s, but are still in a small number in the UK, largely due to cost but also due to a lack of information about the technology.

The cost of condensing boilers is decreasing though, as with all new technology, and the benefits will outweigh the cost.

It is possible to replace most existing boilers with a condensing boiler, whether they are floor standing or wall hung. Extending fluing can be added.

Finding a place for a condensing boiler is no harder than placing a conventional boiler, the only addition is the condensate drain.

You can purchase a standard or combination boiler, and they are no harder to install than any conventional boiler. You will not need to change your system design.

It is not a requirement to install oversized radiators to achieve energy efficiency. The main energy benefit is from having the larger heat exchanger. While large radiators create lower return temperatures and do add efficiency, the extra benefit has not been regarded as cost effective.

A high efficiency boiler requires good heating controls. Ensure you have:

  • an electronic timer or programmer
  • a room thermostat
  • thermostatic radiator control valves (TRVs)
  • separate thermostatic control on the hot water system

 

Sutton Coldfield Plumbing And Heating Call Now 0121 330 1115

Showers

As with all kitchen and bathroom fittings, the most durable are chrome plated. Chrome plating is a hard and durable finish, and generally requires little attention other than a standard clean.

Corrosive atmospheres and salt air can however have a detrimental effect on chrome finishes. If chromium plated fittings are exposed to these elements they must be washed frequently to be kept in correct working order. If green spots appear on chromium plating, prevent the rust from spreading by using a power recommended for enamelled and cast iron fixtures.

When showers go wrong, it is usually because the shower head starts spraying unevenly. This does not mean that you have to purchase a new head; it is likely to just be clogged with built up mineral deposits from the water supply.

Simply remove the face of the shower head and clean the back surface, poking blocked holes with a stiff needle. Modern shower heads are self cleaning, but in the case of both modern and traditional showers, investing in a water softener will help your shower flow smoothly.

To understand potential issues with your shower, or if you are considering having a new shower fitted, it is first worth considering the kinds of shower available and the possible problems which each.

 

There are three basic types of shower available:

Conventional Showers – Low Pressure, High Flow

 

Conventional showers merely mix the hot and cold water supply, and force it to spray. It is the most simple and cheap design, but how it performs depends on its water supply.
With a cistern-fed hot water supply, the shower is likely to be poor in power as there is little pressure. If the shower heads restriction is reduced, you can get a lot of water to pour out but with minimum force. As the water supply is external, temperature fluctuations are common, though a thermostatic can help this issue.

Combination boilers or a Megaflo will supply hot water at high pressure, but can still be affected by the resistance of the incoming rising main. Combination boilers usually have thermostatic valves as they can produce rapid variations in water temperature.

In standard showers, the hot and cold water supply must be in equal pressures, with the exception of a special valve which uses low pressure hot and high pressure cold. This valve is supposed to boost the hot water flow by taking advantage of the pressure of the cold water.Electric/Instant Showers – High Pressure, Low Flow

 

Electric showers have built in pumps that store low pressure water, and instantaneously heat the cold water only supply with an electric element. These showers are fairly easy for a plumber to install, and as they require no hot water supply, allow the user to take continuous showers.

In the simplest electric showers, the water temperature is controlled by a choice of two powers and by varying the water flow rate. On top range models you will find electronic control of the heating element which allows for variable output.

The problem with electric showers lies in the power output. For example, in winter when you may want a hotter shower, the incoming water will be colder, leaving you with a lower flow rate. They can also be expensive to run, as they add to your electricity bill each time they are used. This may however be balanced by the fact that the hot water does not have be stored.

Electric showers have small but strong jet flows. The shower head is designed specifically to cope with this, and so you should use the head supplied to avoid any problems.

 

Pumped/"Power" Showers – High Pressure, High Flow

 

Pumped power showers contain an electric pump which boosts the water pressure and can improve the flow rate. From a plumbing perspective, they are easier to wire as the motor only requires a low current supply.

 

Unfortunately for owners of a combi boiler, Megaflo or multi-points, pumped showers must be cistern fed. There is too much resistance for it to work, but more importantly it is against water regulations to pump from the water main.

Pumped showers have an advantage over conventional designs in that they are less likely to be affected by variations in temperature, and can produce a lot of water with a lot of force. Some shower heads for these designs mix air with the water. What many people don’t realise however; is that power showers can be extremely wasteful of water.
The basic pumped or power shower is screwed to the wall and connected to your existing mixer and shower head with flexible hoses.

A disadvantage of power showers is that they can be noisy. This is fairly unavoidable for mounted showers, but if the pump is separate, flexible couplings supplied should reduce the noise of pipework vibration.

Some of the shower pumps use Safety Extra Low Voltage (SELV) at around 24V, and have separate transformers which are installed far from the water. Although, all approved mains pumps will have been designed and tested to high safety standards, and will be safe for family use if properly installed.

Some Plumbing Codes require bath and shower valves to be balanced in pressure to prevent scalding. Temperature control is easier with pumped and electric showers, but if the water heater is set lower this minimises the risk of scalds.

Sutton Coldfield & Lichfield.

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